On our last morning, I woke up early to watch the sun rise over the Indian Ocean. From our vantage point on the balcony, we have a good view of the human activity that happens at daybreak: fishermen, garbage pickers, kitesurfers, joggers.
S and I spent the morning at the beach, climbing around the rocks that were exposed during low tide. As it was Easter Sunday, there were plenty of families and children out. For lunch at the Blue Mango, I tried a Durban specialty, bunny chow, a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with curry. The crust soaks up all the curry, yum.
We finished packing, said goodbye to C who doesn't leave for another week, and headed to the airport. S and I are on different flights to Jo'burg but the rest of the trips are the same. At the OR Tambo Airport, I found a postal outlet in the food court in the domestic terminal to buy an international stamp to send a postcard.
So, that's my trip, an incredible two weeks spent seeing a lot of different parts of South Africa. I was glad to be able to spend time with S, as she had been away since the start of February. The country is definitely in transition and it takes some time to wrap your mind around how things are done (or not done). I won't soon forget the crazy highways, the beauty of the mountains, the contrast between rich and poor, the charming local accent...
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
P.S. When I got home, I noticed that Aeroplan had not credited my account with the DUR-JNB and JNB-FRA flights. Tip: hang on to your boarding passes, because the airlines are too lazy to look in their computers to confirm you actually went on their flights.
Another early start to our day, 08:15, as we piled into our safari vehicle. Chantal, one of the employees at the guest house, was to be our driver and guide as we went into the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve. As we passed the entrance gate (complete with electrified wires on the ground), we slowed down to a leisurely pace as Chantal kept one eye on the road and another on any wildlife lurking in the forest. Sightings were few and far in between; it had rained in the park yesterday, so most of the animals didn't need to come out to watering holes or the dry riverbeds. We passed many vehicles on the roads (they must have been up for 06:00!), and the drivers exchanged details of sightings and conditions.
We broke for lunch at a picnic site, a little disappointed that we had seen so little, but you never know what you'll see on safari. Our guide told us stories of elephants charging and snake bites and lion attacks that left us in awe.
The puttering of the engine, the monotony of staring at the landscape and gentle rocking over the potholes left a lot of people in the 4x4 sleepy. I was wide awake, keeping my eyes peeled for animals, but I was never able to spot any wildlife before our guide did.
Towards the end of the afternoon, we saw giraffes grazing on a hill. Then, we spotted a herd of giraffes. As we were all ooh-ing and aah-ing and snapping photos, all of them suddenly turned their heads to the right. We followed their gaze and saw a huge group of antelope accompanied by a wildebeest. There was some sort of commotion and the entire group began to move across the road, and up the hill:
Suddenly, we saw the reason they were skittish: a leopard walked right across the road in front of us! It jumped into the grasses and was gone in a minute. Chantal said that sightings of big cats often happen like this, unpredictable and fleeting. So, after spending an entire day riding in the safari vehicle, the most exciting part of the drive came right at the end.
S and I left for Durban soon after we got back to the guest house. We weren't able to get a table at our favourite Italian restaurant due to it being Easter weekend, so we settled for takeout and had our last meal on our balcony in Umdloti.
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
Early in the morning, we drove south along the N2 to the Bushlands exit to DumaZulu for the 08:15 village tour and show. As we got out of our car, a man dressed in traditional costume came up to us and excitedly gestured and spoke to us in isiZulu. We exchanged greetings and watched as he drew a diagram in the dirt explaining the layout of the village we were about to see. He also taught us a few words to remember: yebo, unjani, siyaphila. As we approached the entrance of the village, which was surrounded with a high fence made of branches, two crossed branches signified that we had seek permission to enter. Our guide helped us call out a friendly greeting and we entered into the centre.
Each of the different displays was described in great detail by our guide. It was uncomfortable for the villagers to be sitting there, going through the motions, and uncomfortable for us to watch, knowing there were just performing. We learned a few interesting things: Zulu women go topless if they are not married, are partially clothed if they are engaged, and are fully clothed if they are married; two kinds of spears are named onomatopoeically for the sound they make when they fly through the air, and when they pierce a body; the central post in the huts is slapped by the men when they want the women to come over to their side. Perhaps the most interesting fact we learned is that this living museum is not owned by the villagers themselves; rather, it is managed by an anthropologist who pays them a token amount for their performances. Had we known this, we might have thought twice about attending.
Here are two videos taken at DumaZulu:
Around 10, we drove down the road to the Emdoneni Cat Rehabilitation Centre. Our host at the guest house called this a cheetah show which evoked visions of cats performing tricks, but it turned out to be a rescue for animals that have been orphaned, often by humans who thought they would make good pets. With a little hesitation, we followed our guide directly into the fenced pens of each of the cats, as she assured us it would be safe.
The servals turned out to be relatively harmless, hanging out in the tree or hiding in the grass. They didn't really pay much attention to us. However, the caracal (also known as a lynx) was very playful, chomping on a blade of grass that another visitor held, and cuddling with S. We weren't allowed to go inside the African wildcat's pen though; our guide said that's the only cat that's ever given her stitches.
There were two cheetahs at Emdoneni, a male and a female. They were in separate pens; otherwise, if they were allowed to play together, they would think they were siblings and refuse to mate! We cautiously approached the cheetahs, mindful that we were inside a pen. With cheetahs. During the afternoon tour when the cheetahs are fed, the guide holds the cheetah's head in a bucket that has blood in it. It is apparently safe to pet the cheetah at this point.
We made our way back to the other side of Hluhluwe to go to Ilala Weavers for some lunch. Tip: skip the milkshakes and try the fruit smoothies instead. The craft store had a wide range of items for sale, from beads to baskets to pottery to clothes.
We had to get moving to make our appointment at the Mkuze Game Reserve where we were booked for a wilderness hike. Unfortunately, we totally underestimated both the distance and the roads. After taking the Mkuze exit off the N2, we turned onto dirt roads full of holes that led us through many hills and small villages. There were few signs and we flagged down one of the few trucks we saw to give us directions. We entered through the west gate and find ourselves at one of the camps where we found out that Hluhluwe Guest House had booked us for the 06:00 hike! Since we missed both our scheduled 14:00 and another 15:00 hike, we pleaded with the staff to make arrangements for a guide.
He arrived, a deep-voiced, soft-spoken man who toted a rifle to scare off any potential animal attacks. We drove a short distance, parked, and then set out on foot into the field. The ground was covered in small rocks and very thorny bushes. Aside from the wind rustling the trees and our own footsteps, it was quiet. Every so often, our guide would point out old piles of rhino dung, or the footprints of an another animal. He spotted a group of giraffes in the distance and we slowly made our way towards them, but of course, the giraffes saw us first and lumbered away each time we got close. The realization that our actions caused them to react made quite an impression on me.
Over the hour and a half that we hiked, we came across some rhinos, saw a few zebras and antelope, a wildebeest skull and even a dung beetle. This was perhaps the best part of our trip so far. Sharing the same ground that these animals walked on made us feel like we were really immersed in the environment.
We decided to avoid the dirt roads leading back to the highway and exited the reserve via the east gate. This route took us to a dirt and gravel road but it became paved soon after. Unfortunately, a rainstorm began and S bravely drove us home in darkness as we passed cars with their highbeams on and villagers walking on the side of the road.
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
At 07:30, S and I began the long drive up to St. Lucia for a boat tour of the estuary. We didn't even have the name of the boat that had been booked for us by the guest house we were going to stay at. Cell phone calls were wonky; I kept getting "User busy". Finally, we got through and found out our boat was the Fannas. The town of St. Lucia is very tourist-oriented, with a gazillion signs pointing to the restaurants, craft shops, etc. and we had to double back to find the dirt road that led down to the pier. The boat operator hadn't heard of us, nor did we have tickets, so we ended up paying and walking on like everyone else. Along the coast of the waterway, there were mangrove trees with their funky roots sticking out. Our captain-guide pointed out several species of eagles and herons, and pointed out some crocodiles that were along the bank. He then manoeuvered us towards a whole group of hippos with their whole bodies mostly underwater.
After lunch in town, we drove up along the coast towards Cape Vidal through the iSimangaliso Wetlands Park. The well-paved roads led us up and down hills through some spectacular scenery and a lot of wildlife as well.
At the beach, we were pleased to find that there weren't too many people, and we enjoyed wading in the ocean, tossed about by the powerful waves. I'm amazed by how salty seawater is; I don't remember the last time I was in the ocean or even at a beach, too long I guess.
We left around 16:30 and retraced our steps back to St. Lucia to get back on the N2 and headed north to Hluhluwe. This took longer than we had anticipated and we arrived as the sun was beginning to set. S had booked us for two nights at the Hluhluwe Guest House. This is a quaint property with a lot of African art decorating the common rooms in the main house, by the pool and in the individual guest rooms. We ate dinner in the dining room, a rather plain, homecooked meal which was a bit of a letdown, given all of the excellent food we enjoyed recently.
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
S had to be at the university for more work and a final farewell, so I stayed around the apartment and did laundry. Our guests left and I spent some time reading on the beach. I met S and C at the Blue Mango, a local bar with a great patio overlooking the ocean. We had “nachos” which were really deep-fried wonton skins served with ketchup. Very interesting, but not tasty. In the evening, S and I packed for our last mini-trip, up to Hluhluwe for game viewing!
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
Today is a rest day for me, as S has to go to the university and our guests went to visit Hillcrest with C. I'm at an Internet cafe in a DVD shop where the connection is fast (ADSL) but I can't use too much of the 2GB per month bandwidth. So not too many pictures uploaded.
In the evening, we attended a book launch at Ike's Books and Collectibles, a fantastic store on a trendy street in Durban. I found an awesome book entitled “The Chinese-Kosher Cookbook” published in 1964. There are all sorts of old typewriters scattered throughout, something I've grown to appreciate since seeing the exhibit at the ROM.
We joined the author and crew at a nearby Indian restaurant. One interesting feature of the menu was that the mains were presented in a table, with sauces on the left and choice of vegetable or meat along the top, and the prices were listed in the cells. I sampled the garlic naan, a dal and a vegetable dish with xacutti (coconut-based) sauce. During the meal, we were approached by various men selling beaded crafts and hats. It was such an odd situation to be on the patio of a restaurant enjoying a meal surrounded by bars, and to see these men trying to sell their wares to make a living. Afterwards, we hit a club for drinks and dessert, the name of which escapes me now; it may have had Valentine in it.
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
S and I picked up M at her house then headed to the Midlands, where several tourism routes through rolling hills are lined with artist shops, craft stores and restaurants. Our first stop was at Fordoun, a spa where we had booked massages. I tried the "Duku Duku" stick massage (R300) where the masseur uses polished wooden sticks as well as her hands. We had a delicious late lunch over at the Granny Mouse Country House restaurant.
M really wanted to show us a bead store called Decadence. Some of the women who make the art and jewelry live on the farm and earn money designing the crafts and filling commissions. We shopped, sat for coffee and dessert (yummy ice cream filled pancakes!) and chatted with the jewelry designer. Before the shops closed (usually 4 or 5 pm), we made it out to Spiral Blue, a store that imports a lot of Indian and Thai clothing, jewelry and knickknacks. It was dark when we left for Umdloti.
We have some guests in the apartment at the moment, three travellers who were put in touch with C. Our evening was enhanced with guitar playing and interesting conversation that lasted until past midnight, an hour unheard of in a town where everyone is asleep by 9 or 10 pm!
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
In the morning, we decided to drive back to Cape Town via Stellenbosch, another major wine town in this area. Again, without a map, we tried to find the downtown area but ended up being stopped at a police checkpoint. The officers checked S's license and peered in the vehicle, and gave us directions to the main square. We didn't really like this town much either; it was nicer than Paarl but still not as nice as Franschhoek.
Our flight back to Durban was uneventful. We got back into Umdloti to find that the temperature had dropped and the humidity was gone. It turns out that it had been raining for the last few days. What a relief!
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
After breakfast, we checked out of Klein Oliphants Hoek and took a stroll around the main street. The bazaar at the Dutch Reformed Church featured a lot of crafts and snacks being sold, and pancakes being flipped inside the building. Outside, there was music and braai and a man selling the coolest little custom-made chairs for kids.
We left Franschhoek and drove in the direction of Paarl without any decent map. I was trying to find the roads to go to Backsberg or Glen Carlou, but couldn't really tell where we were. We ended up stopping at Lindhorst, a small winery with a restaurant. Lunch on their back patio (thankfully, with transparent blinds to block the fierce wind) was nice, but the tasting was even better. They served little snacks (nuts, black pepper shortbread, mozzarella) with the wines, and our tasting guide described the history and composition of each one in detail. Time got away from us again so we got directions to Fairview and hurried off.
With only a half hour before closing, we weren't able to see much at Fairview. The goat tower was something I was really looking forward to, and it didn't disappoint. We spent some time in the cheese shop, purchasing delicious goat cheeses, including one covered in sundried tomato, the other in herb and garlic. Tip: buy the little mini styrofoam cooler for R16. They gave us a tasting of two wines on the house, as there wasn't enough time to do a guiding master tasting which was recommended to us by a wine tour guide we met yesterday. Sadly, they were sold out of a Viognier dessert wine which I had my eye on.
Paarl is definitely more developed than Franschhoek and far less quaint. On the drive into the town, we saw security gates and bars on windows that are common in the Durban area. Even McDonald's has infiltrated this wine town. We stayed at Lemoenkloof, a guest house and conference centre. The rooms are nicely appointed and modern, with a shared sitting room. We only had my Fodor's book to guide us to a restaurant and settled on Marc's Mediterranean Cuisine where we had a ho-hum meal.
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
Our first full day in the winelands began with me wandering through the little town as S had some work to do on her laptop. All of the guest houses and buildings are so charming; the whole town is extremely pleasant to walk through. Many shops are tucked in behind the main street accessible through quaint alleys.
I reserved a picnic lunch at the Boschendal winery which was a 10-minute drive away. The seating area is under the shade of many tall trees, and we enjoyed our vegetarian basket immensely. The tasting was less impressive, as we didn't really enjoy any of the 10 wines we sampled.
Many of the wineries close around 4 or 5 in the afternoon, so we were only able to make it out to one other winery, Grande Provence, which doesn't close until 8. The estate was beautiful, very elegant and classy. We enjoyed two of the wines enough to purchase a few bottles which they packed for us in styrofoam-padded boxes.
Our new friends from last night told us about a dinner and jazz place nearby for dinner, so we walked from the guest house down a lane, guided by the sound of the music. A small band played outside while we had a nice cheese platter but almost inedible spanokopita. The best part were all the little kids dancing and flailing their arms to the music in the near darkness. I think admission was R100 which included a bottle of wine.
Complete set of South Africa pictures in my Flickr set.
On our last morning, I woke up early to watch the sun rise over the Indian Ocean. From our vantage point on the balcony, we have a good view of the human activity that happens at daybreak: fishermen, garbage pickers, kitesurfers, joggers.
S and I spent the morning at the beach, climbing around the rocks that were exposed during low tide. As it was Easter Sunday, there were plenty of families and children out. For lunch at the Blue Mango, I tried a Durban specialty, bunny chow, a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with curry. The crust soaks up all the curry, yum.
